Runway to reality

Designers debuted more than just the latest fashions during their New York & Paris shows. Daring eyes, glowing skin and bold lip stains all made cameos this spring. Running the spectrum from edgy to effortless, there's a bevy of beautiful looks in bloom.
I give you, the inside scoop of creating a few of my favourites from the runway.

GIVENCHY
Silver lining

The over-size shark tooth pendants and use of eel-
skin and sea wolf were the most overt pointers
to his watery theme. The approach was less
about the cool, street inspired T-shirts for young
insiders and more about casting the net wider
 to catch
grown women
 who are in the market for tailored,
quite dressy looks and subtle optimistic
use of colours.
Right up my street.

The life of aquatic inspired Riccardo Tisci this season. Behind the scenes, the beauty team developed a fresh look that hinted at a modern-day mermaid. Led by Pat McGrath, make up artists meticulously applied half cuts of silver sequins to the centre of upper and lower lids to mimic the twinkle of Tisci's shiny jackets. (Enhance this look by applying a dab of bronzer to skin and highlighter to inner-eye corners and the cupids bow) Hirstylist Luigi Mureno topped off the aesthetic by creating be achy hair with flowing waves.

Gisele closed the Givenchy show in Paris. naturally.

Love the simple shoes and metallic finish of everything at the show.



ELIE TAHARI
Midas Touch

Riffing on early-twentieth-century explorer chic and Egyptian exploration in particular, Tahari kicked off his show with a group of white and sand-toned looks accented with gold trim and accessories. His long, tailored toppers, airy blouses, and gold mesh accessories won't present a challenge to customers; the good-looking harem pants and flapping skirts will probably be a harder sell. 

Elie Tahari's ancient Egypt inspired spring collection was
complemented by make up artist Romy Soleimani's sun kissed look. Soleimani hydrated the skin pre-foundation and swept M.A.C Goldmine Eye Shadow on cheeks as a blush. The same shade was then applied to lids, and a warm shadow was dabbed in creases. Eyes were topped with a blend of shimmery beiges, and a single coat of neutral gloss was applied to pouts. Hairstylist Esther Langham supplied the finishing touch: a polished, nape-level ponytail, wrapped loosely around the base with a tendril.


YVES SAINT LAURENT
Glam Slam

Essence of super French classiness on
the Paris run way

For spring, with the groundswell of interest in the mid-twentieth-century couture in his favour, Mr Pilati played it un petit pen Belle du Jour with a hint of Moroccan hippie, and rendered it down to relatively simple pieces, and then throw in some big, jewelled belts and gold-toe capped shoes to ramp things up.

With designer Stefano Pilati's fierce new collection as muse,
make up artist Pat McGrath created statement making beauty.
Eschewing pared-down faces, McGrath broke ranks by pairing heavily rimmed eyes with glistening red lips. What a crime! Using black & brown liners, she drew an exaggerated almond shape that swept across the lids, extended at the corner of the eye and then subtly curved to meet the middle of the bottom lash line.
For balance, she bleached brows and kept complexions flawlessly clean- sans blush.
Messy, wet looking buns by Guido Palau anchored the smouldering look.

Somehow McGrath gets away with bold eyes AND lips

HAIDER ACKERMANN
Heavy Metal

The jewel colours continue this season in floaty silks and androgynous details

The Haider Ackermann spring collection dazzled with bold colour and powerful graze. Oversized tailored jackets with bunched sleeves and popped collars over matching drop-crotch pants that ballooned then tapered, it was like seeing an exaggerated version of Ackermann's own personal style.

Few overtly feminine touches (not even a stiletto!!) were spotted on the spring runway, yet make up artist Stephane Marais and hairstylist Eugene Souleiman defined sex appeal with little more than glossy, bronzy lids and boyish, edgy hair. Marais applied copper and brown eye shadows to lids, while dabs of M.A.C Pro Mixing Medium created extra sheen and a tinge of beige-coloured blush added definition. Models might have donned flat oxfords (shudder...) but they also rocked androgynous updos with voluminous "hawk" tops and slicked back sides that provided a few more inches. Loved it.

In his words, the look was “rockabilly barons,” punctuated by oxford mules and the models’ hair worn swept up into pompadours that were artfully tousled just like the suits. 

Love these hairstyles, effortless effort